Charging safety and the test certificate

A car charges safely on a dedicated circuit with RCD protection and a test certificate, not from an ordinary socket.

Translated from Serbian. Where the exact wording matters, the Serbian original applies.

An electrician tests the installation next to a home charger in a garage
  • The danger is not charging itself but an ordinary Schuko socket: at 16 A, after half an hour of continuous charging, it heats up to ~100 °C
  • A safe installation: a dedicated circuit, the right cable cross-section, a type A RCD with 6 mA DC detection or type B, and an industrial socket or a wallbox
  • The test certificate (atest) is a test report on the installation; ask for it from anyone who installs a charger for you

Why not an ordinary socket

A 16 A Schuko socket is made for short loads: a vacuum cleaner, a heater, tools. A charger draws 10–16 A continuously, for hours. The contacts heat up, the springs weaken, the contact gets worse and heats up even more.

The car's on-board charger can let through direct (DC) leakage current. An ordinary type AC RCD does not see this current. A larger DC component can even “blind” it, so it no longer protects the rest of the circuit either.

The portable charger that comes with the car is not the problem; the socket behind it is. On an industrial socket and a dedicated circuit with proper protection, the same cable works safely every night.

Details: extension cords and cables through the corridor
  • An extension cord, especially one wound on a reel, heats itself up.
  • On a long cable the voltage drops, so the charger runs at its limit.
  • A cable through the corridor gets in the way, lies across the doorway and draws electricity from a meter nobody knows the owner of.

What a dedicated circuit must have

The list is set by the SRPS HD 60364-7-722 standard and applies to every charger, whoever you buy it from.

  • A dedicated circuit from the distribution board, for the charger only.
  • A cable with a suitable cross-section for the power and length.
  • A circuit breaker matched to the charger's power.
  • A 30 mA type A RCD with 6 mA DC detection (RDC-DD) or a type B RCD. Type AC is not acceptable.
  • Earthing and a fault loop check.
  • An industrial socket (CEE) or a fixed wallbox, IP44 or higher. Not a Schuko and not a “reinforced Schuko”.
Details: cross-sections, breakers and additional equipment
  • The cross-section for 11 kW is typically 5×2,5 to 5×6 mm², and for a single-phase socket 3×2,5 to 3×4 mm². The cross-section increases with length, because voltage drop is taken into account, not just current.
  • The breaker is 16 A for 11 kW three-phase or 3,7 kW single-phase, and 32 A for 22 kW or 7,4 kW.
  • Surge protection is recommended, especially with older wiring. It protects both the charger and the car.
Checklist before installation

Ask the contractor for:

  • their name and licence;
  • whether the quote specifies a dedicated circuit, RCD protection (in the board or in the charger), and the cable cross-section and length;
  • what is at the end of the circuit: an industrial socket or a wallbox, not a Schuko;
  • whether the test certificate is included in the price and whether you get it on the day of installation;
  • whether there is a warranty on the work, not just on the device, and who comes out when it does not work, and within how many days;
  • where the MID meter is, if the electricity is not yours: who pays for electricity.

Test certificate

“Atest” is the usual name for an electrical installation test report. With it, an authorised contractor using calibrated instruments confirms that the installation has been carried out and measured in accordance with the regulations. If a company cannot issue a test certificate, that is already an answer.

The test certificate is proof for the building and the garage owner, the basis for an insurance claim in the event of damage, and a condition of the charger manufacturer's warranty.

Details: what is measured and what the document looks like

Testing follows SRPS HD 60364-6. For a charger circuit, the following are measured and checked:

  • continuity of the protective conductor, from the board to the socket;
  • insulation resistance of the conductors;
  • fault loop impedance, so that the breaker disconnects quickly enough in the event of a fault;
  • RCD: tripping current and tripping time;
  • earth resistance, polarity and a functional test of the charger.

The measurements take 30–60 minutes and are done right after installation, and you get the document the same day. It states who tested what, where, when and with which instruments, with the results, a conclusion and a signature. Without that, it is not a test certificate but just a piece of paper.

Details: test report or licensed inspection report

The word “atest” usually means one of two documents.

  • The test report is issued by the installer after the work. The Rulebook on technical standards for low-voltage electrical installations requires testing before the installation is handed over to the user. For a home charger, this is the document you need.
  • A licensed inspection report (stručni nalaz) is issued by a company licensed by the ministry responsible for labour. It is mandatory for electrical installations in workplaces, at prescribed intervals. It is not prescribed for a charger in a private garage.

Regulations and winter

Charging points in garages are also governed by the Rulebook on technical norms for the fire safety of garages (Official Gazette of RS 31/2024 and 59/2025). Charging is regulated, not prohibited: it requires a dedicated installation and protection. Blanket bans have no basis, and neither do extension cords through the corridor.

In winter, part of the energy goes into heating the battery, so charging at low power (a socket, 2,3–3,7 kW) is noticeably slower. An 11 kW wallbox keeps these losses to a minimum.

Details: a check before winter

In winter the charger works the most and the contacts are under the greatest thermal stress. That is why once a year, before the season, it makes sense to check that the connections in the board and at the socket are tight, test the RCD with its “T” button and inspect the cable and plug.

FAQ

What is a type B RCD, and will I need one?

A type B RCD detects DC leakage currents of any size. It is needed only if the charger has no built-in 6 mA DC detection (RDC-DD). Most modern wallboxes have it, so a type A RCD is enough, and type B is several times more expensive.

Will an 11 kW wallbox keep tripping the breakers in the flat?

No, if it has dynamic load management: a sensor at the supply connection sees how much the household is using and reduces charging when the cooker, water heater and other large appliances are switched on. How much of the connection's power is left for the car is shown by the on-site assessment.

Should I get liability insurance?

It is not compulsory, but it is a sensible answer to the assembly's question “who is liable?”: the procedure with the residents' assembly. A third-party liability policy costs less than people think.

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Updated 30.09.2026 · Report an error